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1. Monastery
In a characteristic landscape formed by an open streambed above the sea. Excellent grey slab. One wall only to the left of the gorge.
From the left (south) end of Kantouni beach, you follow a good path parallel to the sea for 20 minutes. As soon as you meet the yellow marks, follow them to the rocks (5 -10 minutes) which are in an open gorge which ends at the sea (total: 25-30 min).
Using the same access for Austrians instead of turning left continue straight ahead following the path. After 15 –20 min you will meet a white wall on your right. Continue walking for 10 - 15 more min and look for yellow marks on your left witch will lead you to the crag. At the end of the main path you will find the small monastery of St Fotios.(South facing slab, wall, overhanging).
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2. Austrians
From the left side of Kantouni beach take the path along the sea side under the church of St Athanasios. After 100m leave the main path and continue to your left and upwards following the small red marks for 15min. This sector has also some boulder routes.( West facing slab, wall, overhaning)
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3. Gerakios
A slab, on partly bad rock. Not recommended.
From Myrties heading for Panormos just before the main road starts going up take a left turn on a cement road which goes over and around the village of Myrties back to Masouri. After 400m you will meet a white pillar on the right indicating the beginning of the path to this sector. 30 min walking time.
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4. Poets
The wall with the “waterholes”. Lovely pitches on slab of difficulty 6a to 6c.
At the end of Masouri village and opposite hotel Continental a sign on the wall indicates the beginning of the path to Poets. Start walking on a steep concrete road and then follow the blue marks.(South facing slab, wall, overhanging).
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5. Kalydna
A large cliff-face between "Panorama" and "Poets". The beginning of a new route with the first two pitches.
As to the "Poets" but after 10 min follow a path from the goats on the left. No signs there. 25 min walking to the cliff.
Located between Stankill and Iannis. To approach either use the same as for Panorama and traverse to your right or use the access for Poets and turn left and upwards after ten minutes walking.(South West facing slab, wall, overhanging).
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6. Panorama
A steep grey wall with fantastic view and many possibilities.
The same as to the "Afternoon". After the "large cave" turn right. 25 min walking.
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7. GrandeGrotta (Large Cave)
An impressively large cave. The potential is for incredibly difficult routes.
After the hotel Filoxenia at the end of Masouri village look for the white pillar and follow the red marks towards the impressive large cave.(South facing). Attention: Some stalactites can fall causing serious injuries to climbers whom are standing bellow.
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8. Afternoon
A beautiful grey slab to the left of the large cave. Recommended for the hot summer days.
After the village "Masouri" look for the hotel "Filoxenia" and park there. You take a steep uphill path follow the red marks at the right flank of the valley till the big olive tree and continue to the "Large cave". Then turn left. 20 min walking.
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9. JurassicPark
A new sector in a cave with stalactites.
The same access as for Afternoon is used. After Afternoon continue following the blue signs upwards to your left. ( South facing cave with routes on wall, overhanging).
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10. Muses
A 5min walk from Iliada to the right. (West facing short wall/overhanging)
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11. Odyssey
The combination of excellent rock and the variety of routes has determined this sector as the main climbing area of the island.
You can approach Odyssey following the dirt road used for the two previous sectors and after the end of it walk for 15min following the blue marks to your left and upwards. If you are on foot a closer approach can be made from following the dirt road witch begins at the white pillar for Odyssey after the climbing info desk. 1,5 km from Massouri. (North west facing wall and overhanging)
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12. OceanDream
Very good quality of rock with many more possibilities. Worth a visit!
From the right side of sector "Odyssey" green signs followed to the foot of the big wall in front over. 25 min from "Odyssey".
The first part is the same as for Odyssey but instead of turning left to the crag continue upwards following the green signs for about 20min. (South facing slab, wall, overhanging).
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13. NorthCape
A big south face. Possibilities for new routes.
You park as for Odyssey. When you reach the flat road, you go left and head for the characteristic grey slabs over difficult ground towards the left cave. Also approachable from the curve of the road in the level of "Casteli". 10-15 min walking to the cliff.
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14. Kasteli
Right next to the sea, steep and sharp slabs with many possibilities from 4a to 6a. On the west side of a conical hill above the sea, on which you find the ruined Byzantine castle of Kasteli.
Drive from Masouri to Arginonta, after crossing sector "Odyssey" and see the ruins of the castle, follow the right slope of the hill. 5-6 min walking to the cliff.
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15. GreyZone
A characteristic compact grey slab with good rock.
100m after the last houses of Arginonta, you enter the gorge on the right with the grey rocks, and then leave on the right. Red marks show the way. 5 min walking to the cliff. The first white pillar you meet after Arginonda village is the beginning of the path to this sector. 5 min walk following the red marks.(South facing slab).
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16. Helvetia
A new hard field with amazing holes and rifles.
Right and above to Arche. 5-6 min more walking. Also approachable from Grey Zone. No signs at both.
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17. Arche (Start)
An amazing field. In the center there is a vast rifle with some lines on it for the opening of extremely difficult pitches.
You pass the last houses of Arginonta where the road begins to climb. After 500 metres you reach a bridge above a dry stream. You park immediately after the bridge and follow the path towards the pitches. They are near the yellow rifle that can be seen from afar. 6-8 min walking to the cliff.
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18. Noufaro
A new sector, to the left of "Arhe". A red wall in front & a grey slab to the left.
200m behind sector "Arhe" you will find red signs on the road and on the path. 4-5 min walking to the cliff. You will meet first "Tango". 100m left of "Tango" you will find six more routes on a grey slab.
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19. Galatiani ( Halkiti Cave )
A large cliff-face after Noufaro. The beginning of a new route of five pitches
The starting point is indicated about 100m before the sign for sector cave. Follow the red colored path for 40min to a large face.(South facing)
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20. Cave
A Cave close to the road. On the left of the routes there is another nice and deep cave with a door in front.
About 100m before Seaside Kitchen 5min walk from the pillar following the yellow marks. The name was given because of a cave witch is on the left of the crag.(Southwest facing). 50m to your left you will find 6 more routes. Follow the mark to the ‘’Upper Cave’’
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21. TheSeasideKitchen
An amazing rifle on each side of medium difficulty slabs. A beautiful grey slab to the right with "Zyklop".
While heading from Arginonda to Skalia100m before Skalia village a large cliff on the right. 20min walk from the pillar following the red marks. (South/southwest facing slab, wall).
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22. Palace
A rock arch gives a special note to the landscape. A relatively limited area of average quality rock but with amazing formations. The rock overhangs with rifles and holes. A fine place for novel photographs
It is at the north end of the island. You turn right after Skalia onto a road under construction and after 300 metres you turn left onto a track for 150 metres. You park in front of the door for the wicket for the goats. Unlock the door, pass through and close it back. Follow the red marks on the path, from the olive tree, for about 3-5 min.
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23. BabyHouse
A completely new field, to the left of Palace, with the same access. Interesting sector on red rock with holes and athletic steep routes.
With the palace on your left, continue along a level path for 50m.
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24. Kreissaal /Materrnity Clinic
A new field on a grey slab, above the upper houses of the village of Emporios. Sharp grey rock with horizontal steps. At present, three pitches of about 6a. Worth a visit to the ancient castle "Kastri".
From the curve of the road in the entrance of the village Emporios follow the right flank of the valley till the cliffs and the ancient wall and then turn left to the grey slab, left of the big cave. In total 20 min. No signs.
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25. SaintConstantine
Very sharp grey and red rock. At present, three equipped pitches. Also worth visiting the small old monastery and the ancient castle.
From Telendos port follow a good path, parallel to the sea, to the north with signs for the monastery. In total 1 hour from the port. Another option is to hire a boat for the dock beneath the monastery. 20 minutes from the dock.
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26. School
It is an excellent choice for new climbers. A helmet is strongly recommended.
On the left of Odyssey. Follow the blue signs after routes Bonny & Clyde (5 min) .The same as North Cape with 10min more walking to the right or from the left side of Odyssey following the marks.(South facing slab).
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28. Olive Tree
200m on the left of Styx. From Styx continue left through a gate to a big old olive tree
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29. Styx
100m to the left of “Francois Guillot”. Use the same path.
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30. Emborios ( Francois Guillot)
100m after the pillar for Kreissaal, heading for the little harbor of Emborios, on your right you meet a white painted pillar with it’s sign indicating your way towards the sector. Following the road you reach a dead end with a small dam. A second sign on the dam shows you the direction to the beginning of the path. From there continue walking for 15min to a South facing wall with corners and chimneys.
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31. Kastri
Respecting the monument, no names of routes exist in this area apart from “Side Cut”.
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32. Sophie
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33. Thalassa (Sea)
The same as for Palace, Baby House plus a few more min left through the gorge.
The same as for Palace, Baby House plus a few more min left through the gorge.
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34. Skalia Pillar
Using the same dirt road for Palace, once meeting the two info signs, instead of turning left continue upward until a big curve with a small gate to your right and ‘’Skalia Pillar written on the left of the gate in red on. Walk through the gate and downwards to an olive tree and from there continue for another 12 min strait ahead towards a super yellow pillar.
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35. SIKATI
A unique huge hole, a cave with no roof, with a diameter of 50 – 60m and 70m deep at some parts, with the surrounding walls full of tufas and stalactites
The first part is the same as for “Skalia Pillar”. Continuing uphill on the same dirt road you will reach the top from were you have panoramic views towards Leros, Turkey and the islands north, north – east side. On your right the settlement of Palionisos and on your left the U bay of Sykati with it’s lonely beach and the small church of St. George.
Continue downwards for about 300m to the first major switchback. You will find a goat pen here and a bit further down the road a boats cabin.
From the goats pen you can generally get an idea of your course:
• The climbing area is directly opposite the head land/peninsula forming the northern border of Sykati’s bay.
• The climbing area is behind (north west) the third and last bunker (old houses left by the Italians during the war).
Go through the gate of the goats pen, with a red dot at the top (always maintain the gates in the position they are found) and trend generally down and west to a second gate were two perpendicular fences meet. Continue through the second gate moving west passing two characteristic large boulders aiming for the last of the three bunkers.
From here stay on the path marked with red paint dots as it contours around a ridge and down into a narrow gorge.
The cave and the beautiful beach are now visible. Reach the caves lips and from the north side scramble down (4a) into the hole.
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36. PALIONISOS
The first part used for Sykati. Instead of stopping at the first major switchback continue using the same road towards the settlement of Palionisos (East). The red wall is obvious on your left just a few minutes before the end of the road. Ten minute walk for the approach from the road.
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37. Magic Wall
A new sector to the left and above Noufaro. 1,1km from Arginonda village the white pillar indicates the beginning for sectors Nenuphar and Magic Wall.
From the pillar a few min walk first to Noufaro and from there following the obvious red spots up to the steep wall with overhanging sections. Three multipitch routes well protected reach the summit.
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38. Black Forest
1,7km after the village of Arginonda in the direction of Emborios. From the white pillar follow the marks for 15min
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39. Dalle a Patouc
3 min walk on the left of Belgian Chocolates Excellent grey limestone, south – east facing, sun after 11:00.
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40. Belgian Chocolates
Using the same access for Noufaro then continue to the right and after a few min left and upwards following the marks for 4min to a flat gray slab. This sector can also be approached from the pillar for “Archi”
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41. Chappi
To the left of Balcon Helvetia
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42. Canyon
A small cave on the right of the canyon between Archi and Grey Zone. Scramble up the narrow canyon using the fixed rope to the small cave on the right side
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43. Sea Breeze
A grey slab on the right of Grey Zone. You can use the access for Grey Zone or follow the blue marks from the road near the fenced property.(South facing grey slab)
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44. Amphitheater
On the left of Katharina
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45. Katharina
Above the village of Arginonda, following the dirt road under construction. After aproximently 350m look for a fix rope on the left side which will help you for about 5 min looking for a gray slab
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46. Red Wall
Between Amphitheater and Katharina
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47. Piccalia
Following the new under construction road and having left “Katharina” and “Amphitheater” behind a small wall to your left. 15 min walking time from the road to the sector. Sun after 12:00
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48. Julian
Great view to Leros, Pserimos, Kos and Turkey.
use the new road under construction from Arginonda to Vathi until the highest point (close to the hunter’s kiosk). From there the gray wall to your right is obvious. Look for yellow marks, 50m on your right before the kiosk. Five minute walk to the crag.
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49. Rockland
The first part is the same as the access for sector Julian. From the hunters hut follow blue marks, direction east
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50. Stimenia. (Je t’aime) - Kapsouris
At the end of Vathy valley, above Stimenia settlement, the cliff looking east, just a few minutes above the new road
Suggestion: the name should change to "Kapsouris"
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51. Milianos
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52. E.T.
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53. Summertime
On your way towards Arginonda just after a deserted old quarry on the right follow the red marks for 5 min.(North facing slab).
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54. Magoulias Wall
Follow the red marks to Summer Time and then the red points and the stone woman to the beginning of the routes. 15 min walk
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55. Ando Drom
Using the same access for Summertime then continue upwards follow the red points for Magoulias Wall for 100m then turn right and follow the red points ( 10 min from the road ).
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56. Local Cave
A sector in a cave some 150m left and further upwards of “Summer Time”.
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57. Highlands
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58. Dolphin Bay
On the right side of Castelli. From the parking area of Kasteli walk down and turn rihgt following the red marks for 15min. If you are coming from Arginonda to Castelli about 50m before “Appollo” on the right side of the road follow red marks for 2min and then 20m abseil from“Paula the Seal”.
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59. Apollo
100m after “Castelli” on the left side of the road follow red marks upwards for 2min. Southfacing sun after 13:00
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60. Peter
Use the same access as for North Cape and from the telephone pole you meet continue left following red marks
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61. Olympic Wall
A large wall of 110 m height on the right of Ocean Dream. Potential for 40 routes from 6c – 8c with excellent rock
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62. Iliada
As you are approaching Odyssey you make a right traverse for 15min towards masouri at about the same level.(South facing slab to overhanging).
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63. Spartakus
On the left and behind Afternoon. For the approach use the same as for Afternoon and Grande Grotta.(North facing wall to overhanging).
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64. Stankill
Between Panorama and Kalydna
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65. Ivory Tower
Left of Kalydna
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66. Iannis
To the left of Poets using the same access. (South facing).
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67. White Shark
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68. Zeus
To the right of Poets using the same access. 5 min walk from Poets
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69. Meltemi
Follow the red path on the right of Zeus through two fenced gates and continue upwards. You meet the first three routes on your left and for the rest continue right following the stone marks. Total walking time 50 – 60 min. Routes 1 & 6 offer easy access to the summit.
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70. Princes of Telendos
A new sector established during Easter 2007 at the three caves above the village of the island.
From the harbor at Myrties catch a boat for Telendos. After the ten-minute trip, from the harbor of Telendos head right (north). 100 meters after the last building follow blue marks, which lead upwards and left for about 20 min to three caves.
- (Gymnasium: left upper and bigger cave)
- (Barbarossa: central smaller cave)
- ( Totem Pole: right and lower cave)
- (For Telendian: the lower sector a small gorge)
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71. Telendos North Face
Use the first part of the access for Eros but after paradise beach 20 min uphill walking towards the obvious almost 200m high crag.
(North facing multipitch route).
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72. Eros
From Myrties you take a small boat across to Telendos and follow the trial to St Konstantinos on the right side (north) of the island along the seaside. After the second beach you meet a sign ‘’eros’’ and you follow the blue spots for about 30min. When you meet the left turn for the monastery continue straight following the blue marks for another 15min.(East facing wall, overhanging)
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73. Saint Konstantinos
The same as for Eros but you must take the left turn and upwards below the little white monastery of St Konstantinos.(East facing)
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74. Miltiadis
Using the last part of the path for Saint Konstantinos the obvious crag to your right. An 80m rope is recommended.
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75. Irox
A total walk of 50 min from the harbor of Telendos towards sector Eros (north). From sector Eros descent downwards to the sea.
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76. Glaros
Just after Irox turn left in the direction of Eros then traverse rightwards above Irox using the same marks and around the corner. Keep walking and gain the last step with a fixed rope. 10 to 15 min from Irox.
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77. Pescatore
5 min to the right of “Eros”. Sun after 17:00
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78. Snow White
From the main harbor of Telendos set for the old cemetery (left side). On your way you will meet a goat pen. Walk through it making sure you have left the doors in the position they were found and follow the left path. Total walking time 5 – 10 min
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79. The Sleeping Princes
From the harbor of Telendos take the path for hohlakas beach
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80. Crystal Cave
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81. Princess Canyon
A. Sector Gorge DroiteB. Sector Dalle
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82. Symblegades Petres
Heading from Myrties to Panormos following the main road at the top of the hill just before taking the road downwards to Panormos make a left turn where the sign for hotel Kamari is and follow the blue marks witch will lead you to a building under construction. Park there and continue on foot for 15min following the blue marks. A gorge 15 – 20m wide with routes on the west, east and north face.(Slab, wall, overhanging).
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83. Ourania
Use the same as for Symblegades to your left you will see a big cave. North west facing.
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84. Mystere
Left of Ourania
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85. Mantres
The same as for Austrians but instead of turning left towards the crag continue on the main path for another 5 min. The sector is just before the only white wall, to your left.
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86. Agios Fotis
The same as for Monastery but continue walking on the main path to the small church of St Fotios. The sector is actually a few min after it.
(Southwest facing slab, wall, overhanging).
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87. Prophet Ilias
From the left side of the Fortress of Hora follow the dirt road witch is actually the beginning of the trekking route for the islands summit (Prophet Ilias 679m). Leaving behind the west wall of the Fortress at the end of the dirt road, turn right and continue upwards for 15min.
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88. Dodoni
At the village of Hora in the gorge right of the fortress 10min walk from the olive oil factory on the right of the gorge.(West facing slab, wall).
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90. Nera
Arriving at Argos village head for the small chapel (St Konstantinos), on the top of the hill which orientates the natural south western border of the village. From there follow the blue signs down the narrow gorge towards the left side (south ) of Pithari Bay.
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91. Sea Museum
At the village Vlyxadia, at the end of the beach (west) follow the narrow road after the museum and the kafenion on your right. After 50m turn left and follow the way up to the house. From there on follow the blue signs until the crag. 10 minutes total walking from the beach, north facing.
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92. Rina (Vathy Fiord)
- Hook (2 pitches roject). About 100m from Rinas small harbor, on the left of the fiord, in the center of a big steep red cliff, starting from sea level
- Puerto escondido (2 pitches project).On the right of the fiord 150m from Rina’s harbor on a white amphitheatric cliff, starting from sea level.
- Socratic swimming lessons – 5b/7a (bulder). On the right side of Rina’s harbor with the first 250m relatively easy 5b/c. The second part about100m has moves of 6c+/7a. Return either along the wall or swimming.
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93. Stavrui (Cross)
At Vathi village from the area called Metoxi follow the street signs for “Panagia Kura Psili”. The narrow road wonders in between small houses and orchyuards and continues through sheepfolds, climbing uphill. At the top of the hill stands a small church. From the small church 15min walk to your right (east). South facing slab.
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© ELIES
hotel, PANORMOS, KALYMNOS 85200, GREECE
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